![]() With the age and wear they both surely have in the pump seals and other parts, I think the regular Hygard has helped. All in all, I am very satisfied and will use the same fluid in my 314 the next time I change it. ![]() The relief valves on my 314 are in good shape though and it always lets the deck creep back down to the floor. Maybe that's weak relief valves, I'm not sure as it did have one with a broken spring and I replaced the spring with one a little stiffer than it had. The hydro is quieter by quite a bit, very little whine, it doesn't lose any speed whatsoever even on going up the steeper portion of my yard and holds its ground speed much better than before, it's a little more touchy finding dead stop neutral (haven't adjusted it on the linkage yet), I have to be a little more smooth going from forward to reverse or vice versa as it engages quickly and can be jerk pretty hard if I move the lever too fast, from the first time I mowed until the second was 9 days and the deck was still fully up, it hadn't crept down like it did before and like my 314 does. Since using the regular Hygard (4 qts.) and a qt of low viscosity Hygard to finish filling (had it on hand) my 300's hydro, I have the following results. I thought I would come back and touch base on this one. I have ran my 332 with my loader for 8 hours straight(90+ F.) except for fuel and a barley pop break A 25 year old hydro lost its close tolerances a long time ago. ![]() The hydraulic fluid gets thinner as the fluid temperature increases. I changed to the regular HyGard and it was much better. This tractor had the cooler that is shown in the technical archives. When I used my Mini-Loader in HOT weather,my 322 hydro with Low-Vis would get weak. IMPORTANT: Do not use engine oil for this Other oils may be used if they meet one of the following: Range during the period between oil changes. Use oil viscosity based on the expected air temperature If there is one, I would like to get a copy of it to show him. I checked with the parts manager at work and he said he never heard of a Service Bulletin or other information that superceded the technical manuals for these tractors. My 318, 322, or 332 can use either based on the ambient temperature. A 317 specifies type F or regular Viscosity Hygard. My 345 ONLY specifies Low Viscosity HyGard. I always use the PREFERRED hydro fluid specified in the technical manual for each specific tractor. I think the Regular Hygard will make a difference here and I believe it will be just fine in the winter months as well. The ambient temp range for Low Vis is -40 to about 85F while for regular Hygard, 0-122F. The difference I see between the two products are this. I have my 332 apart now getting ready for this years first plow day I attend in PA and I am headed to the dealer tomorrow to get 2 gallons of the full strength Hygard !!! I had then checked the oil level, which was fine, so I let it cool for some time and it would pull fine again. The tractor would slow and then lurch forward and got almost to a point of NO forward drive. My hydro had gotten so hot that I think I could have fried an egg on the differential. The plow field was not fit for our garden tractors as it was plowing rock with a bit of dirt thrown here and there, definitely a farm tractor field !! I had changed my hydro fluid last spring and used Low-Vis which has a part number for a gallon of TY22000.Īfter this switch I had a overheat problem at one of the plow days I attended.
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